Contact seal. Contact stamp Contact stamp

Hello dear customer! The company "Printing LOGO" is engaged in applying a logo to any objects and surfaces. By contacting us you do the best choice! An experienced team of professionals of the company website easily implements a project of any complexity in the shortest possible time. You will easily find understanding from our managers, and due to the high level of personnel training, production will fulfill even the most complex order. You can contact us by mail or by phone. It is possible to use Viber and WhatsApp for communication. Personal meetings are possible in our cozy office in Moscow - we will have a coffee, we will discuss any problems related to souvenir gift products with a logo.

Mail for placing orders: [email protected]
Office phone in Moscow: 8-495-225-42-62
Office mobile phone in Moscow: 8-963-678-19-88 (Viber and WhatsApp)
Write to the director: [email protected]
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Time to call - 10:00 - 20:00
Moscow time:

Working days - MONDAY FRIDAY.

Our address: Russia, Moscow, Avtozavodskaya street, 25с2
This is the entrance of the GELIIMASH plant. At the checkpoint, you need to say that you are in the Print Logo company, ask for a directions to the office or warehouse.

Contacts of a reliable supplier of souvenirs with a logo

Over the years, we have applied logos to almost every item imaginable. For small pens and hard drives, thermoses and thermo mugs with circular print. Tampons for cosmetics and champagne buckets were padded. Tennis rackets and ice hockey pucks also did not go unnoticed. On rackets, it is possible to apply not only on the body, but also on the strings themselves. Diaries with full-color UV printing look as presentable as possible. If you were looking for contacts of people who can do all this, this is Printing Logo LLC, one of the leading companies in the market for applying logos to complex and very complex products. Are you looking for contacts of a company that can print on any materials? - Printing a logo carries out high-quality application of a logo on objects made of any materials - printing on paper, wood, iron, all types of plastic, rubber and even silicone! We will be very glad to see you among our customers!

Cardboard base 5 mm thick, 18x24 in size,

Pressure glass 18x24 cm.

Negatives for contact printing must be pre-cut into 6-7 frames for further storage in transparent pockets for archiving.

Before cutting, the film should be rolled up in a roll with the emulsion outward.

Determination of exposure

Freeing the frame of the enlarger from the negative.

We put the base and the pressure glass under the enlarger.

Adjust the size of the projection area by the frame curtains to the size of the pressure glass.

For a sample of paper 13x3cm. with inactive light, place the negative down with an emulsion layer and press down with glass.

We expose a sample of paper with an interval of 1 sec., With aperture 11 as a step test.

Developing 90 sec, rinsing, fixing 1 min.

We analyze the result and choose the correct exposure.

Define masking zones if necessary.

Contact positive stamp

Set the selected exposure time on the photo relay.

On a sheet of paper 13x18cm. with inactive light, we hardly lay the negatives down with an emulsion layer and press down with glass.

If necessary, we define the masking zones of a group or individual frames.

Conducting a test exposure with masking in inactive light.

We remove the red filter.

We expose and mask.

Developing 90 sec, rinsing, curing 10 min., Final rinsing 15 min.

Dry prints at 24 ° C on a tissue plate.

Annex 1

Projection printing

Step test

with an interval of 1 sec.,

at aperture 11 as

Development 90 sec,

rinsing,

fixing 1 + 10 min.

Print 13x18

fixing 1 + 15 min

Print 13x18

exposure time-3 sec. at aperture 11. Development 90 sec, rinsing, fixing 1 + 15 min

Contact stamp

Fragment of a contact print 13x18

exposure time-3 sec. at aperture 11. Development 90 sec, rinsing, fixing 1 + 15 min

Some time ago, wiring and making a printed circuit board for your device was a must-have skill for almost any radio amateur. On the one hand, there is nowhere to go - no one will make her darling for you, but on the other, the process presupposes a fair amount of knowledge and practical skills that will not be superfluous. And remember how these printed circuit boards were drawn ... Where is there drawing with ink on tracing paper, which harassed more than one generation of students in universities of technical orientations.

Indeed, there are several ways to make a printed circuit board, if we talk about the chemical dissolution of unprotected areas of copper on foil laminated plastic, then historically the first method was manual drawing - a vulgar drawing pen, often a special glass one. We also used plastic capillaries drawn from a thick-walled replaceable ampoule from a ballpoint pen or, what is better, metal capillaries from needles of medical syringes. There were a number of special techniques, akin to ink drawing, that allowed you to draw straight paths, special rulers with legs or a raised edge so as not to smudge the paths. Recipes for compositions that were convenient for drawing were passed from hand to hand - not drying up in a needle and not smearing.

When personal computers ceased to be exotic, it was found that along with games, there was a number of very useful, rather complex programs - the so-called "CAD" (computer-aided design systems), among them came across and focused on our radio amateur business in particular and the electronic industry in general. At the very beginning, in the days of the "286s" and "386s", when "frog A jumps further than frog B", I remember there were simple programs that nevertheless made it possible to considerably facilitate the work of "tracing" the boards - before them, they drew on graph paper or simply on a leaf in a box. Moreover, it was possible to print the finished drawing at a scale of 1: 1 (on a matrix printer for a carbon copy - there were always not enough cartridges) and fixing it with adhesive tape on the blank of foil-clad fiberglass, pinning the centers of future holes according to the printout - as a result, the holes on the board were located much more evenly and more precisely, which was very important for microcircuits. The tracks were drawn anyway by hand, using the same drawing pen.

A little later, dot matrix printers have sunk into oblivion and have been replaced by laser and inkjet printers. I suspect that from the very beginning of drawing printed circuit boards on a computer, the radio amateur people were tormented by the question of how to transfer this beauty right like this, from the screen, otherwise it was painfully beautiful "there" and clumsy "here", something with it had to be done. When laser printers, "The miracle of hostile technology", appeared, relatively speaking, not only in the dean's offices, but also in the departments, and the people figured out what was what, a technology was born with the transfer of molten toner, an iron, known as "LUT" (laser-ironing). Soon, specialized chemicals were added.

The latter make it possible to organize by very simple means, at home, a process similar to an industrial one and achieve a very good quality end products. Yes, as a device for printing photomasks, it is allowed, and moreover, it is directly recommended that an inkjet printer - unlike a laser one, does not heat paper and film during printing and the printout matches the specified dimensions very accurately. Well, the photomask turns out to be more "dense" - that is, black, in the light, it is black, not gray.

So, let's take a closer look at the whole process.

What was needed for him.

Instruments.
Requires access to a computer with a printer, small locksmith tools, containers of the appropriate size for developing and etching. You will definitely need a UV lamp. Soft brush.

Materials.
Transparent film for printing on the type of printer to which there is access, photoresist varnish, chemicals for - developing (NaOH, "Mole"), for etching (at choice - ferric chloride, copper sulfate with salt, citric acid with hydrogen peroxide) , in fact, the workpiece itself.

I got such a photoresist varnish in an aerosol can. "Positive" means that when printing a photomask, you do not need to convert the image into a negative - everything that is black on the template will be protected by varnish from the etching solution and will remain in the form of bulges on the workpiece.

First of all, we cut out the workpiece. If this is a piece of iron, then everything is clear, if it is laminated plastic with a layer of foil, then it is worth taking care of a simple tool that will greatly facilitate the process.

The cutter is made from a broken hacksaw blade, the tooth is sawn with a "grinder", the handle will have to be made of, but you should not be aesthetically pleasing - the tool is not very durable, you need to regularly update the "claw" - fiberglass is an abrasive material.

The workpiece should be cut with a "allowance" - ten millimeters on each side are not suitable for a high-quality print.

After cutting the workpiece, it is carefully sanded with fine emery paper, several times, alternating the direction of grinding. The surface of the workpiece must be flat and matte. Do not touch the prepared surface with your hands - greasy stains will not allow the varnish to stick reliably. Better, even before grinding, put on a clean glove on your left hand and hold the workpiece only with it.

After sanding, varnish is applied to the prepared surface. A thin layer ( common mistake- pour fatter, the layer should be slightly visible and only). It is better to tilt the workpiece so that the excess liquid varnish drips. It is understandable in a ventilated place or on the street and in dim lighting, so as not to immediately light up. After the excess has drained off, the workpiece is placed horizontally in a previously prepared opaque box for drying.

Drying. There are two options - "natural" - at least a day at room temperature and "forced" - in an oven at 75 degrees Celsius, a quarter of an hour. At the same time, the drying cabinet must be equipped with a PID controller, otherwise a significant "overrun" of temperature cannot be avoided and the workpiece will most likely be damaged. In factory conditions, they do not like to dry at room temperature - for a long time and there is a high risk of catching dust particles on the sticky surface. We have to hurry, as if there is nowhere.

While the workpiece is drying, we print a photomask. On transparencies designed for printing on our type of printer. From the program where the drawing was developed. Print quality should be set to maximum. In principle, one pass is sufficient, but on a large field finished product small "ulcers" are visible. To reduce them to a minimum, the illumination interval should be taken as minimal as possible and measured very accurately, preferably using a stopwatch.

A denser photomask, allowing more liberties, can be done by double printing in one place, if the mechanism of our printer swallows the sheets in exactly the same way. If not, it is better to make two copies and overlap each other with pieces of tape. Let's take a look at this.

Two identical photomasks are printed. Mirror. Both. In order to attach them to the blank with the ink side - a measure that has a positive effect on the resolution of the future print.

The printed templates are cut with scissors, and one of the copies, it is better to make a little less than the second - it will be more convenient to fix it with tape. Four pieces of narrow tape, several centimeters long, are cut in advance and glued to the edge of the desktop.

The template with large margins is placed on a sheet of white paper, with a layer of ink on the paper. A template with smaller margins is placed on top and shifting it, we precisely combine the picture. On a white background of a sheet of paper, it is very convenient to do this. Holding the upper template with one hand, we fix its edges with prepared pieces of adhesive tape. Order.

With a single-layer photomask, against the background of snow outside the window, it is clear that it shines a little.

With two layers, black, against the background of the same snow, remains black.

After drying the workpiece, take it out in poor lighting, inspect it. The surface should be transparent, shiny, lacquered, slightly purple in color. Most likely, small smudges have formed at the edges, but that's what the allowance is for. The slightest haze of the film indicates that the coating is not suitable for further evolution. You can wash off this with acetone, without regret, we will only save time.

Exposure. Our varnish is sensitive to ultraviolet light (UV). The most convenient source of UV light is perhaps an energy-saving lamp. It is enough to screw it into any table lamp with a suitable base and the "irradiator" is ready.

Such a lamp manages to expose workpieces up to 200 mm in length. In one sitting, if you light up a longer one, you can use a military trick - to expose in parts, covering the finished one with an opaque plate.

Exposure. The workpiece is placed on a flat surface, on top of it is a photomask with the corresponding side and all this goodness is pressed against the glass. It is convenient to cut out two identical glasses and place a blank with a photomask between them. The edges of the glasses can be temporarily secured with clerical clips.

But top scores are obtained with an elastic transparent "pillow". In most cases, on medium-sized workpieces, it is convenient to use a sealed bag with a zipper.

Inflate it just a little and close the fastener. So that you get a kind of "mattress". It is laid between the top glass and the photomask. The essence of its application is a uniform tight pressing of the photomask to the workpiece. There is also a method for pressing by vacuum, but this is incomparably simpler. When the size of a bag with a fastener is not enough, you can solder such a mattress yourself from a regular bag or just polyethylene.

A strip of paper is placed on the place to be welded and a heated soldering iron tip is pulled over it. Speed ​​and temperature should be selected in advance. A soldering iron is desirable with an average ~ 40 W, power and temperature control of the tip.

The exposure time should be selected in advance by a simple experiment - a photo varnish is applied to the blank and a template is printed - 10 min, 9 min, 8 min, 7 min ... well, let's say - a piece of tin. In a minute we move the plate, exposing the inscription "9min", then, after another minute, we add "8min" to them, and so on. Then, after development, we examine the result and write down in the workbook and on the box with the UV lamp, the period of time at which the clearest prints were obtained.

It should be remembered that the exposure conditions should be completely repeated - the same lamp, the same distance to the workpiece, the same glasses. Yet important point- like all fluorescent (energy-saving) lamps, our UV smoothly enters the operating mode. That is, you need to turn on the lamp, wait a couple of minutes, then stick a blank with a photomask under it. This is of course a pity - it would be tempting to use a time switch for photo printing, but incandescent lamps were used there.

After exposure, we put the blank again in an opaque box, for 5 ... 10 min. It is important.
After exposure in the dark - development.

The development of my varnish is carried out with alkali - NaOH, sold in radio stores in a dry form. It dissolves in water. It is possible, and even better, to use a solution of a pipe cleaner, such as KROT, which contains this alkali. Firstly, it is cheap and affordable, and secondly, the effect of such a cleaning solution is much milder. True, not all versions of "MOLE" include this alkali. Concentration - 60 ml per 1 liter of water. A scarf or a blank of our piece of iron is dipped into a suitable trough with an alkali solution and after waiting a couple of minutes, we slightly fan the surface of the blank in the solution with a very soft brush. The areas of varnish that were under the transparent areas of the photomask should begin to dissolve. In the end, there will be a fairly well-visible, clear print.

Immediately rinse the workpiece in clean water and place it in the pickling solution.

There are several recipes for etching copper and its alloys. Recent times the recipe for hydrogen peroxide seems to have gained popularity and citric acid... Ladies', such a solution - so as not to stain anything at home and buy ingredients in your usual grocery store and pharmacy. This is where his merits are exhausted. The cost of the components in terms of the required volume is no cheaper than ferric chloride. The last, "textbook" recipe. Works quickly, especially when heated, is now quite affordable. It is necessary to work carefully - it stains the fabric and hands a lot. And finally, the cheapest recipe is in two parts. table salt, one part copper sulfate... The latter is sold in hardware stores with a garden bias. With good heating, it works no worse than ferric chloride. True, copper compounds are poisonous - not "mustard-sarin-soman" of course, an insulating gas mask is not needed, but washing your hands after work will not hurt.

So, the chemicals and utensils are selected in advance, the solution is prepared. We place the developed workpiece in it. Yes, if it is a piece of iron, the reverse side from being corroded by the solution and the solution itself should be protected from unnecessary consumption - protect the surface from the etching solution access to it, for example, with nitro lacquer. It is appropriate to do this before covering the photo of the varnish. That is, it is covered back side blanks of our piece of iron with nitro-lacquer, not forgetting to coat the ends. In a couple of layers, fortunately, it dries quickly. After complete drying, we clean the working surface with a fine sandpaper and apply a sensitive varnish to it from a spray can.

(sometimes positive) is done directly on photographic paper or transparencies, without using a lens. The size of the print is the same as the negative, since the distance between the negative and the print is practically zero. With contact printing, the maximum number of parts is retained.

Using contact printing:

• Index sprint: film pieces of 6 frames are placed on photographic paper, pressed against the glass, and photographs with a size of 24 × 36 mm are printed from them, which is convenient for the subsequent selection of cards for printing.
• Contact print as a final product, from photographic plates or from large format negatives.

Before the advent of film enlargers for devices used in contact printing, the terms "copy frame" and "copy machine" were more common.

Illumination is carried out from the side of the original.

Technique

• Contact machine for narrow films. The negatives are placed in the files-grooves located on the pressure glass, while the numbers of frames with negative film... Produced in 1960-80.

Copy frame

• Wooden contact box, for direct printing from glass photographic plates. A sheet of clean photographic paper was placed on the bottom of a box, sized for a certain paper format, and pressed on top with a glass photographic plate - a negative. Produced in the 19th century.

Copy machine

The desire to get the best results in terms of stability, speed up the printing process, coupled with the advent of electric lighting, led to the creation of a copying machine - a lightproof box, inside which there is a light source (most often one or two electric lamps), and the top cover of which is the same copying machine. frame. The only difference is that the negative is laid down (emulsion up), and photographic paper is placed on it.

Cinema

In the production of films, specialized film copiers are used, many of which use contact printing.

Links

• Contact print of American photographer Robert Frank, working material for The Americans

1) obtaining a printed image on paper or other printing material by direct. its contact under pressure with printed form, ink is applied to the printing elements. 2) Receiving for photosensitivity. material (eg, photographic material) of the hidden photographer. or electrostatic. images by contact copying from a negative or a transparency with subsequent development and fixation (see Fig.).

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